Types of Lace Fabric: Complete Guide to 15+ Lace Varieties

Lace is one of the most intricate, beautiful, and historically significant textiles in the world. From delicate Chantilly bridal veils to bold guipure appliques and stretchy lace for lingerie, the variety of lace types is astonishing — and knowing the differences helps you choose the perfect lace for your project. In this comprehensive guide, we cover 15+ types of lace fabric, how lace is made, key characteristics, sewing tips, care instructions, and a comparison to help you find exactly what you need.

What Is Lace Fabric?

Lace is an openwork fabric created by interlacing, looping, twisting, or knotting threads into intricate patterns with open holes between them. Unlike standard woven fabrics where threads cross at right angles in a tight grid, lace is characterized by its decorative open spaces (called “ground” or “mesh”) and its raised motifs (called “toile”).

A Brief History of Lace

True lace emerged in Europe during the late 15th and early 16th centuries, primarily in Italy (Venice) and Flanders (modern-day Belgium). For centuries, lace was handmade — either with needles (needle lace) or with bobbins on a pillow (bobbin lace). This painstaking process made lace extraordinarily expensive, and it was regulated by sumptuary laws that restricted its use to nobility and clergy.

The invention of machine-made lace in the early 19th century (Nottingham, England) revolutionized the industry, making lace accessible to the general public. Today, the vast majority of lace is machine-produced, but handmade lace traditions survive in Belgium, Italy, France, and other countries as cherished cultural heritage.

How Lace Is Made: Four Main Methods

15+ Types of Lace Fabric

Here is a comprehensive overview of the most important lace types you’ll encounter:

Chantilly Lace

Named after the town of Chantilly in northern France, this is perhaps the most iconic lace in bridal design. Chantilly lace features delicate floral motifs on a fine net mesh ground, outlined with a slightly heavier thread that defines the pattern. It typically has scalloped edges and is available in both silk (traditional) and nylon/polyester (modern). Chantilly lace drapes softly and is often used as a full overlay on bridal gowns, or for veils and sleeves.

Alençon Lace

Alençon lace (named after Alençon, France) is often called the “Queen of Lace.” Its defining feature is the cordonnet — a raised cord or heavier thread that outlines each motif, giving the pattern a 3D, sculptural quality. Traditional Alençon lace is needle-made and is one of the most expensive laces in the world. Machine-made versions are widely available and retain the characteristic corded outline at a more accessible price.

Guipure Lace

Guipure lace is a heavy, standalone lace with no mesh ground. The motifs are connected to each other by bars (brides) rather than being supported by a net background. This gives guipure a bold, graphic, almost modern appearance. It is popular for cocktail dresses, skirts, and structured bridal bodices where a strong visual impact is desired. Because it has no mesh background, guipure lace can be cut apart into individual motifs for applique work.

Venice (Venetian) Lace

Venice lace is a heavily textured, three-dimensional lace originally made using needle lace techniques in Venice, Italy. It features raised floral and scroll motifs that stand prominently above the surface. Venice lace is heavy and stiff compared to other laces, making it ideal for trim, appliques, and structured garment details rather than full-overlay use. It is often seen on collars, cuffs, and bodice accents.

French Lace

French lace is a broad term for laces produced in the French tradition, known for exceptional refinement and delicacy. French laces often feature eyelash edges (where thread ends are left unfinished along the scallop, creating a feathery, lash-like border). Calais and Lyon are major centers of French lace production. French lace is used extensively in bridal design, couture fashion, and luxury lingerie.

Eyelet Lace

Eyelet (also called broderie anglaise) is technically an embroidered fabric rather than a true lace, but it is widely categorized and sold as lace. It features small, punched oval or round holes surrounded by embroidered borders on a woven cotton or cotton-blend base. Eyelet lace is opaque where there is no hole, making it less sheer than other laces. It has a fresh, country-chic aesthetic and is popular for summer dresses, children’s clothing, and lightweight blouses.

Stretch Lace

Stretch lace is a modern innovation that incorporates spandex (elastane) into the lace structure, giving it 2-way or 4-way stretch. The patterns are typically produced on Raschel knitting machines. Stretch lace is the go-to fabric for lingerie, bralettes, fitted tops, and dancewear. It conforms to the body comfortably while providing coverage through its decorative pattern.

Crochet Lace

Crochet lace is made by looping thread with a crochet hook to create an interconnected pattern. It has a distinctly handmade, artisanal quality with a slightly heavier, more textured feel than machine lace. Crochet lace is popular in bohemian and vintage fashion (crop tops, cover-ups, skirts) and home decor (doilies, table runners, curtains).

Lace Properties and Characteristics

Key Characteristics of Lace

• Openwork pattern: All lace has decorative holes or open areas as a fundamental design element.
• Scalloped edges: Many laces have natural scalloped borders that serve as decorative hems or trim.
• Directionality: Lace patterns often have a clear top and bottom. Always check the motif direction before cutting.
• Fragility: Most lace (except guipure and stretch lace) is delicate and requires careful handling.
• Pattern matching: When using lace for garments, matching the pattern at seam lines elevates the finished result.

Common Uses and Projects for Lace

Bridal and Wedding

• Wedding gowns: Lace overlays, bodices, sleeves, and trains — lace is the defining fabric of bridal fashion.
• Veils: Lace-edged or all-lace veils (especially Chantilly and Alençon) are bridal classics.
• Bridesmaids’ dresses: Lace bodice with a solid skirt is a popular bridesmaid design.
• Invitations and stationery: Lace-patterned wraps for invitation suites.

Fashion and Apparel

• Evening and cocktail dresses: Guipure and corded lace for structured, dramatic looks.
• Lingerie and intimate apparel: Stretch lace and French lace for bralettes, underwear, and nightgowns.
• Blouses and tops: Lace sleeves, yokes, or full lace tops over a camisole.
• Accessories: Lace gloves, headbands, chokers, and fans.

Home Decor

• Table linens: Lace tablecloths, runners, and placemats (Cluny, Battenberg, crochet styles).
• Curtains and window panels: Lace curtains provide a classic, vintage aesthetic while allowing light through.
• Decorative pillows: Lace overlays on solid fabric create elegant accent pillows.

Crafts

• Applique and embellishment: Cut Venice or guipure motifs and sew or glue onto other fabric.
• Scrapbooking and card making: Lace ribbon and trim for paper crafts.
• Dream catchers and wall hangings: Lace doilies as craft elements.

How to Sew Lace Fabric

Sewing lace requires different techniques depending on the type:

Cutting Lace

• Follow the motif: Rather than cutting lace in a straight line, cut around the motif shapes at the edges. This creates a more natural, professional finish than a blunt cut.
• Pattern layout: Lay your pattern pieces on the lace and position them so motifs are symmetrical (especially on bodices and sleeves).
• Single layer: Cut lace in a single layer when possible for better control and pattern matching.
• Stabilizer: For very fine lace, place water-soluble stabilizer underneath to support the fabric during cutting and stitching.

Needle and Thread

• Needle: Use a Microtex/Sharp 60/8 or 70/10 for fine lace, or a Universal 80/12 for heavier guipure/Venice lace.
• Thread: Fine polyester thread that matches the lace color. For invisible seams, use monofilament (clear) thread.
• Stitch length: Short stitch (1.5–2.0 mm) for fine lace; standard (2.5 mm) for heavier lace.

Sewing Techniques

• Lapping seams: For lace-on-lace seams, overlap the two pieces so motifs align, then stitch along the motif outline. Trim away excess from both layers. This creates an invisible join.
• Underlay construction: For garments, cut a lining from a solid fabric (like charmeuse or crepe) and construct the garment in the lining. Then apply the lace over the top, stitching it in place.
• Edge finishing: Use the lace’s own scalloped edge as the hem wherever possible. If you must create a hem, use a narrow rolled hem or hand-stitch the edge.
• Zippers in lace: Apply the zipper to the lining layer, then let the lace overlay cover it for an invisible closure.

How to Care for Lace Fabric

Lace Care Tips

• Never wring lace. Gently squeeze out water and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
• Store antique or heirloom lace wrapped in acid-free tissue paper in a cool, dry place. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and cause yellowing.
• For beaded lace: Always dry clean. Hand washing can loosen beads and sequins.
• Remove stains immediately. Blot (never rub) with a damp cloth. For stubborn stains on valuable lace, consult a professional textile conservator.

How to Choose the Right Lace

For Bridal Gowns

Chantilly for romantic, all-over overlays. Alençon for a sculptural, corded effect. Guipure for a modern, bold bodice or skirt. Beaded lace for ultimate glamour. Consider having the lace professionally matched to your gown’s silhouette by a bridal seamstress.

For Lingerie

Stretch lace is essential for items that need to fit close to the body. Look for lace with a soft hand, a scalloped edge on at least one side, and at least 20% stretch for comfortable wear. French lace with eyelash edges adds a couture touch to bralettes and camisoles.

For Casual and Everyday Fashion

Eyelet lace for summer dresses and blouses. Crochet lace for bohemian-inspired tops and cover-ups. Cotton lace trim for adding a handmade touch to existing garments.

For Home Decor

Cluny or Battenberg lace for table linens and doilies. Machine-made cotton lace panels for curtains. Guipure motifs for decorating throw pillows or napkin rings.

Explore Fabric at EOVEA

While lace is not currently in our product lineup, EOVEA offers a wide range of craft and sewing fabrics. If you enjoy intricate, detail-oriented projects, explore our Felt Fabric Collection — perfect for cut-out designs, appliques, and embellishment projects. Browse our full catalog for premium fabric by the yard.

Frequently Asked Questions About Lace

What is the most expensive type of lace?

Handmade needle lace, particularly Alençon and Point de Venise, is the most expensive. Authentic handmade Alençon lace can cost hundreds of dollars per yard because each piece takes weeks or months to produce by hand. Machine-made versions of these laces are much more affordable while retaining the design characteristics.

What is the difference between guipure and Chantilly lace?

The main difference is the background. Chantilly lace has a fine net mesh ground with delicate floral motifs, giving it a soft, sheer, romantic look. Guipure lace has no mesh background — the motifs are connected by bars, making it heavier, bolder, and more structured. Chantilly is for flowing overlays; guipure is for structured, graphic design statements.

Can lace be machine washed?

Cotton lace (eyelet, cluny, crochet) and stretch lace can generally be machine washed on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Fine laces (Chantilly, Alençon, French lace) and beaded or embellished laces should be hand washed or dry cleaned. Always check the care label.

How do you sew lace without it bunching?

Use a water-soluble stabilizer underneath the lace while sewing. Use a short stitch length (1.5–2.0 mm) and a Microtex/Sharp needle. Reduce presser foot pressure if your machine allows it. For seams, overlap and stitch along motifs rather than using standard seam allowances.

Is lace only for formal occasions?

Not at all. While Chantilly and beaded lace are associated with formal events, many lace types are casual-friendly. Eyelet lace is a summer wardrobe staple. Crochet lace has a bohemian feel. Cotton lace trim can dress up a simple t-shirt. Stretch lace is used for everyday lingerie and layering tops.

What is eyelash lace?

Eyelash lace refers to lace with an unfinished, feathery edge where loose thread ends extend beyond the scallop, resembling eyelashes. This delicate edge detail adds a soft, romantic finish. Eyelash lace is especially popular in lingerie and bridal design. It is typically found on French and Chantilly lace varieties.

How do you keep lace from yellowing?

Lace yellows primarily from exposure to light, moisture, and acidic materials. Store lace wrapped in acid-free tissue paper in a cool, dark, dry place. Avoid plastic bags (they trap moisture). If vintage lace has already yellowed, a gentle soak in a mixture of oxygen-based bleach (like OxiClean) and cool water can help restore whiteness — but test a small area first.

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