How to Sew Spandex Fabric: Complete Guide for Beginners & Beyond

January 30, 2026

How to Sew Spandex Fabric: Everything You Need to Know

Sewing with spandex and stretch fabrics can feel intimidating at first — the fabric slides around, stitches skip, and hems wave. But with the right tools and techniques, spandex is actually one of the most rewarding fabrics to sew. This guide covers everything from choosing your needle to finishing professional hems on nylon spandex and cotton spandex fabrics.

Essential Tools & Supplies

Before you start cutting, make sure you have the right equipment:

Needles

Ballpoint needle (Jersey) — best for cotton spandex knits (size 75/11 or 80/12)
Stretch needle — has a deeper scarf to prevent skipped stitches on very stretchy fabrics
Microtex/Sharp needle — works well on tightly woven nylon spandex

Pro tip: Start with a fresh needle for every project. Stretch fabrics dull needles faster than woven fabrics.

Thread

All-purpose polyester thread — has slight stretch, works for most projects
Wooly nylon thread — ideal for serger/overlock loopers (maximum stretch)
Clear elastic thread — for invisible stretch hems

Other Essentials

Rotary cutter + mat — cleaner cuts than scissors on slippery fabric
Pattern weights — don't pin stretch fabric (pins distort it)
Walking foot — feeds fabric evenly through the machine
Ballpoint pins — if you must pin, use these (won't snag fibers)
Wash-away tape or clips — holds seams without pin distortion

Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric

Pre-Wash

Always pre-wash spandex fabric before cutting. Cotton spandex can shrink 3-5% on the first wash. Nylon spandex shrinks less but should still be pre-washed to remove any sizing.

Machine wash cold, gentle cycle
Tumble dry low or hang dry
Do not use fabric softener (reduces stretch recovery)

Determine the Stretch Direction

Stretch fabric has a greater stretch direction — this must go around the body (horizontal). Test by pulling the fabric in both directions:

Cross-grain (selvage to selvage) = greatest stretch → goes around the body
Lengthwise grain (parallel to selvage) = less stretch → goes up and down

Step 2: Cutting

Lay fabric flat on a smooth surface — don't let it hang off the table
Use pattern weights instead of pins to avoid distortion
Cut with a sharp rotary cutter or very sharp scissors
Cut one layer at a time for slippery nylon spandex
Mark with fabric chalk or washable markers (not regular markers)

Negative ease: Most stretch garment patterns are designed smaller than body measurements. The fabric stretches to fit. Check your pattern's stretch percentage requirement matches your fabric.

Step 3: Machine Settings

Stitch Types for Spandex

Stitch	Use	Settings
Narrow zigzag	General seaming	Width 1.0-1.5, Length 2.5
3-step zigzag	Hems, elastic	Width 3.0, Length 2.0
Lightning/stretch stitch	High-stress seams	Built-in on most machines
Straight stitch	Topstitching only	Length 3.0 (with stretch)
Twin needle	Professional hems	4.0mm width, stretch setting

Tension & Pressure

Reduce presser foot pressure — this is the #1 fix for wavy seams
Lower tension slightly — allows thread to stretch with the fabric
Use a walking foot — prevents the top layer from shifting
Sew at medium speed — don't rush through spandex

Step 4: Seaming Techniques

Standard Seam (Zigzag)

For most spandex projects, a narrow zigzag stitch is all you need:

Place fabrics right sides together
Use clips or wash-away tape (avoid pins)
Sew with a narrow zigzag (1.0-1.5mm wide, 2.5mm long)
Stretch gently while sewing — match the fabric's natural recovery
Trim seam allowance to 1/4" and press to one side

Serger/Overlock (Professional Method)

If you have a serger, this is the best method for spandex:

Use a 4-thread overlock stitch
Thread loopers with wooly nylon for maximum stretch
Set differential feed to 1.3-1.5 (prevents stretching)
Seams are sewn, trimmed, and finished in one pass

Step 5: Hemming Spandex

Twin Needle Hem (Recommended)

The twin needle creates a professional-looking hem with built-in stretch:

Fold hem under 3/4" to 1" and press
Install a twin needle (4.0mm or 6.0mm width)
Thread both needles with matching polyester thread
Use a zigzag or stretch stitch on the bobbin
Sew from the right side at an even pace

Other Hemming Options

Cover stitch — industrial-quality stretch hem (if you have a coverstitch machine)
Fold and zigzag — simple, works on casual projects
Raw edge — nylon spandex doesn't fray, so raw edges are fine for swimwear

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Skipped Stitches

Fix: Switch to a stretch needle. Lower the presser foot pressure. Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is fresh.

Wavy or Stretched Seams

Fix: Reduce presser foot pressure. Use a walking foot. Don't pull or push the fabric — let the feed dogs do the work. Use a shorter stitch length.

Fabric Puckering

Fix: Lower thread tension. Use a ballpoint needle. Place tissue paper under the fabric while sewing (tear away after).

Fabric Gets "Eaten" by the Machine

Fix: Use a straight stitch plate or hold a scrap of fabric behind the presser foot when starting. Begin sewing on a scrap, then feed in your actual fabric.

Project Ideas

Ready to start sewing? Here are popular spandex projects for all levels:

Beginner: Headbands, scrunchies, simple tube skirt
Intermediate: Leggings, t-shirts, yoga pants, sports bra
Advanced: Swimwear, dance costumes, lined bodysuits

Browse our full selection of nylon spandex and cotton spandex fabrics by the yard, or check out our stretch fabric buying guide for more inspiration.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a serger to sew spandex?

No. A regular sewing machine with a zigzag stitch works fine. A serger gives cleaner, more professional results, but it's not required for most projects.

What's the best stitch for spandex swimwear?

A narrow zigzag (1.0mm wide, 2.5mm long) or a lightning/stretch stitch. For the most durable swimwear seams, use a serger with wooly nylon in the loopers.

Can I use a regular sewing machine needle on spandex?

A universal needle may work on cotton spandex, but for best results always use a ballpoint, stretch, or microtex needle designed for knit and stretch fabrics.

Why does my spandex pucker when I sew it?

The most common causes are too much tension, wrong needle type, or too much presser foot pressure. Try reducing all three and test on a scrap piece first.